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Ah, that explains why I'm not seeing changes...the highlighting is as it always is on my machine and works in Sigil. After banging around tabbing and hovering for a couple of hours yesterday I couldn't find anything that didn't work. (And yes, I restarted Sigil every time I turned the focus highlighting on or off.)
(No idea why the environment variable didn't work, most likely my fat fingers. I just now found the gtk settings in the dconf-editor, but I really don't want to start messing in there. I have a history of breaking my machine when I get into the weeds and then spending way too long fixing it. Can be fun but not right now.)
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